The Wineries of Saint-Julien
We concluded our visit to Bordeaux’s Left Bank with stops in the Saint-Julien appellation. The smallest of the four “communes” that make up Bordeaux’s Haut-Médoc region, St.-Julien is Cabernet Sauvignon country and, therefore, Gary [and often, Lisa] country. In fact, Gary hand-picked each of the wineries and Into the Vineyard made appointments for private tours and tastings. Writing a wine blog may not snag you a reservation at the French Laundry, but it does help nail one-on-one visits with top winemakers! [photo of Château Léoville Poyferré estate, above]
All of the wineries we visited were included in the 1855 Bordeaux Classification, meaning [among other things] that they have been around for a very long time. The “Premier Crus” are storied estates, including Château Mouton Rothschild, Château Margaux, and Château Latour, whose flagship wines sell for upwards of $1,000. We chose to visit 2nd, 3rd, and 4th Grand Cru Classé estates, whose prices are more in line with our reality.
Favorite Wines of Saint-Julien Tasting
- Château Lagrange Grand Cru Classe St.-Julien 2015 $78 at Vivino
- Château Léoville Poyferré 2015 $114 at B-21
- Château Brenaire-Ducru 2009 $80 at Wine.com
Château Léoville Poyferré Second Grand Cru Classé
Vineyards have flourished on this property since the mid-1600’s, with the winery established in 1840. The company produces three labels: Léoville Poyferré and two second labels, Moulin Riche and Pavillon. We sampled all three and found the second labels not to our taste but the 2015 flagship wine is well-priced [for Bordeaux] and delicious.
Château Léoville Poyferré 2015 $114 at B-21
65% Cab Sauv, 26% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot, 3% Cab Franc
This wine is worth the splurge! Leather and cassis on the nose followed by a liquid velvet balance of black currants/black plum notes.
Château Lagrange Third Grand Cru Classé
Parts of the estate date back to the Middle Ages but Château Lagrange is a thoroughly modern winery thanks to its deep-pocketed owner, Japanese beverage giant Suntory. Lagrange produces three labels: the flagship grand vin, Les Fiefs de Lagrange, and Les Arums de Lagrange, which makes a fruity, too-creamy Sauvignon Blanc/Sémillon blend not aligned with Lisa’s palate but pleasurable to drink. We passed on the Les Fiefs wine but recommend two of the flagship reds.
Château Lagrange Grand Cru Classe St.-Julien 2005 $100 at Cellaraiders
46% Cab Sauv, 45% Merlot, 9% Petit Verdot
We loved the 2005’s depth of concentrated red fruit flavors and the long, fresh smooth finish.
Château Lagrange Grand Cru Classe St.-Julien 2015
$78 at Vivino 75% Cab Sauv, 17% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot
A strikingly different blend of grapes from the 2005 and also outstanding; excellent depth of concentrated red fruits and super smooth tannins. Should rival the 2005!
Château Branaire-Ducru
Fourth Grand Cru Classé
This gorgeous estate fulfills every vision of a storybook Bordeaux winery. From the 1824 Neo-classical Château, to the rose-studded gardens and acres of vineyards, Château Branaire-Ducru is worth a visit for the setting alone. But do stay for the wine!
After a few centuries of decline, the Maroteaux family bought Branaire-Ducru in 1988 and have restored it to its former glory. The family also lives in the Château, a rarity in Bordeaux. The estate produces classic, elegant wines that are sold at surprisingly affordable [again, for Bordeaux] prices. As with most Bordeaux wineries, Branaire-Ducru has a second label, but we only liked the flagship wines.
Château Brenaire-Ducru 2016 $79 at Wine.com
54% Cab Sauv, 27% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot, 3% Cab Franc
An outstanding wine that caught our attention for its smooth integration of tannins, concentrated red fruits, and sense of terroire.
Château Brenaire-Ducru 2009 $80 at Wine.com
65% Cab Sauv, 28% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 3% Cab Franc
Cigar box and leather on the nose; velvety texture; excellent structure with concentrated red fruit and smooth tannins.
Château Talbot Fourth Grand Cru Classé
Tal-bet or Tal-bo? Whether you pronounce the name in the original English [named for Constable Talbot, who was defeated at the battle of Castillon in 1453] or the more elegant French pronunciation, Château Talbot has a long and storied past. After several changes in ownership, Talbot was acquired by Désiré Cordier in 1918 and remains in his family today–the 4th generation at the reins.
Talbot produces red wines under the main label, and a second label, and produces a small amount of white wine under the Caillou Blanc label. We tasted three vintages of the namesake label as well as the 2021 white wine and can recommend the well-priced white and the very pricey Château Talbot 2000.
Château Talbot Saint-Julien 2000 $175 at Sokolin
52% Cab Sauv, 41% Merlot, 4% Petit Verdot, 3% Cab Franc
Silky-smooth, with white pepper and blueberry compote on the palate and a long, spicy finish. Full-bodied and elegant.
Caillou Blanc 2021 $40 at Zachys
73% Sauvignon Blanc, 27%Sémillon
Honey and apricot nose with lots of lovely fruit flavors. Well-balanced; drinkable now or cellar for up to 10-12 years.
Next Up, Montpellier and the Languedoc wine region
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