A Wine-Free Post about 36 hours on the Island of Sardinia
Sardinia is having a moment. Like Portugal and Croatia before it, Sardinia tops plenty of European travelers’ “must visit” list. It’s hot and happening but still relatively uncrowded. And unlike Barcelona, Lisbon, and other overrun Southern European cities fed up with tourists, Sardinia graciously welcomes travelers. We added the island to the end of our Italian wine tasting itinerary, allowing just three days of exploration. We discovered a place so enchanting and unexpected we can’t wait to go back.
An Autonomous Region of Italy, Sardinia lies 120 miles west of the Italian mainland, and is both a part of–and distinctly different from–Italy. It’s an ancient civilization, with ruins dating from 1500 to 400 BCE. Conquered, colonized, or attacked by Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans, Vandals, Spaniards, and North Africans, Sardinia’s culture is a polyglot, reflective of all who have visited [friend and foe] and stayed. So language, history, culture, food, and wine are unique to the island. Before we post about the wineries we visited and the wines we loved, here’s a quick travelogue of our brief visit to Sardinia.
Sardinia’s Capital City: Cagliari
“Who knew?” That was Lisa’s constant refrain when we started exploring Sardinia’s capital city of Cagliari. Our due diligence on Sardinia was, to say the least, lacking. We had scheduled visits to four wineries but left the rest of our time to chance. Turns out, Cagliari is every bit as lively, historic, and stunning as Paris, Barcelona, or Florence…but so much easier to navigate. It’s just 33 sq. miles, but packs in everything we love about European cities. Winding cobblestone streets packed with cafes, wine bars, hotels, and shops. Hilltop castles. Medieval ruins. A bustling port. Palm trees. And beaches. Gorgeous beaches. In short, a quintessential Mediterranean city that honors its ancient past while offering up a 21st century experience. We had never heard of Cagliari before we booked our trip and we haven’t stopped talking about it since.
The Market: Mercato Civico di San Benedetto
Every European city boasts that its public market is the biggest and best. Cagliari is no exception. The Mercato Civico di San Benedtetto is “the largest indoor fish market in Europe,” per Sardinia’s tourism website. And there is a ton of fish and seafood spanning the entire ground floor. But the Market’s 250+ vendors hawk an impressive variety of meats, fruits and vegetables, bread, pasta, coffee, wine, eggs, nuts, pastries, olives…Yup, it’s big. And so worth a visit. We spent about an hour roaming the stalls, gorging ourselves on croissants and cappuccino, and enjoying the noise, aromas, and crowds of this super Market.
Note: The market is undergoing renovations and is will be housed in an uninspiring structure in Piazza Nazzari.
Penisola del Sinis Beach
Apparently everyone knows Sardinia’s beaches are the best in the Med. Except us. We were going there to taste wine. But we did manage to sneak a peak at Penisola del Sinis during a quick stop for lunch. Yes, it was gorgeous–not a cottage, hotel, or resort in sight. And yes, we’re going back for a beach vacation in Sardinia, some day.
Where We Stayed: Hotel Villa Fanny
Villa Fanny is an in-town boutique hotel, just a five minute walk from the city center. Located in one of Cagliari’s chicest neighborhoods, the hotel is also across the street from an ancient Roman amphitheater. Just 19 rooms, with a lavish buffet breakfast, speakeasy-style bar, and dreamy outdoor lounging spot, Villa Fanny was the perfect spot for our introduction to Sardinia.
Next Up: Our Favorite Sardinian Wineries
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