In October, we spent two days in the Priorat wine region of Spain, visiting six wineries across the DOCa. Four of those were absolute stand-outs. We wrote about Clos Mogador and Celler Cal Pla in our previous post. Today we finish up with En Numeros Vermells and Bodegas Mas Alta–two dramatically different but equally exceptional wineries.
EN NUMEROS VERMELLS, Gratallops
Our wine tasting at En Numeros Vermells
There’s a little bit of a cult grown up around Silvia Puig [above, left], the owner/winemaker/artist at En Numeros Vermells. She is a legendary winemaker who consults with big Spanish wineries while pouring her passion into the tiny operation [12,000 bottles a year] whose name essentially means “In the Red” in Catalan. She won’t make a fortune with En Numeros Vermells, but she has definitely made admirers across the wine world.
The small tasting room/art gallery in the village of Gratallops is riot of color. Puig’s art is on the walls, the tanks, and the labels, which she calls “little works of art that encapsulate the soul of each bottle.” From her first vintage in 2008 to the 2022 “White Label” red blend [our favorite,] Puig selects grapes from across The Priorat to craft liquid works of art.
BODEGAS MAS ALTA, La Vilella Alta
Our wine tasting at Bodegas Mas Alta
Bodegas Mas Alta was founded in 1999 by two Belgian families [Lambrecht and Vanhoutte] drawn to the Priorat renaissance. The winery was on Gary’s “must go” list…but getting there was a bit hairy! The drive from our home base in Tarragona [more on this beguiling city in our next post] caused a bit of anxiety when traversing the narrow switchback roads. Thankfully, we weren’t driving! Our guide Ania Andrews from Tourism Priorat lives in the area and handled it like a pro. Upon arrival at Mas Alta, you’re treated to heavenly views of vineyards etched deep into the mountainside. Each tier is at least six feet higher than the next row. The terrain is so steep and the rows of vines so narrow that Mas Alta still employs mules to assist with the work.
Mas Alta has a diverse portfolio of wines, from well-priced classic blends to high-end collectables. We shipped home a stunning Grenache Blanca, a classic Priorat blend, and a rich, smoky Syrah clone.
TOP 10 WINES FROM PRIORAT TASTINGS
We shipped home two cases of wine. Here are our favorites.
EN NUMEROS VERMELLS
Garnacha Blanca 2023; We bought 2 bottles for €23; Not available in US
100% Grenache Blanca
Single vineyard white grenache. Light hay color, honeydew on the nose. Beautifully balanced with creamy backbone and peach + pear flavors
White Label ‘In the Red’ Classic 2022; We bought 4 bottles for €20. Earlier vintages in US at OWS Wine.
Gren. Peruda (70%), Carignan (25%), Syrah (5%)
The 1st wine Silvia Puig produced in 2008 remains one of her best. A silky smooth and peppery delight, with black fruit aromas; chocolate and spice on the palate.
BODEGAS MAS ALTA
Els Pics Blanc 2024; We bought 2 bottles for €20. Not available in US.
Grenache Blanca (80%), Macabeo (20%)
A swoon-worthy white wine! Pale blond, fresh nose with peach and limestone; good acidity, with lots of apples and pears on the palate.
Artigas 2017; We bought 2 bottles for €20. In US for $56 at WineOnline.
Grenache (80%), Carignan (10%), Cab. Sauv (10%)
Black fruit, toasty vanilla nose; zippy fruits with white pepper. Excellent, well-priced entry-level Priorat.
L’Exclosa 2017; We bought 1 bottle for €63. Not available in US.
100% Serine, a Syrah clone from the northern Rhone
Luscious caramelized cherry compote nose; ripe black fruit and spice on the palate; long, flavorful finish.
CLOS MOGADOR [we didn’t ship any wine home as they are generally available in the US]
Priorat 2022; €85 at the winery. In US for $99 at Decantalo
Grenache (45%), Carignan (29%), Syrah (16%), Cab. Sauv (10%)
Black fruit and vanilla on the nose; “ka-boom” on the palate! Black plums and berries with a finish that goes on and on. Tightly wound and still a bit young.
Nelin 2016; €60 at the winery. In US for $75 at Saratoga Wine. 6 bottle minimum
Grenache Blanca (50%), Macabeo (50%)
An earthy white with some mint on the nose; full palate with peachy overtones and good minerality from the slate soil.
CELLER CAL PLA
Mas d’En Compte Blanc 2014; We bought 7 bottles for €30. 2015 in US for $26 at Solano Cellars
Grenache Blanca (50%), Picapoll Blanc (25%), Xarel·lo (25%)
Deep gold color; rich and multi flavored, like a salty baked peach dish. Syrupy mouthfeel. The 2020 left us cold but the 2014 hit a home run. 30 y.o. vines.
Mas d’En Compte 2017; We bought 3 bottles for €20. Not available in US
Grenache (50%), Carignan (40%), Cab Sauv (10%)
Vegetal nose leads to a licorice and vanilla with black current on the palate; smooth and rich with velvet finish. 30-80 y.o. vines. 90% of grapes aged 14 months in French oak; 10% in Hungarian barrels
Planots’ Vinyes Velles 2015; We bought 2 bottles for €50; 2007 in US for $99 at Luekens
Grenache (50%), Carignan (50%)
Beautiful structure and finesse; cherry compote on steroids! 115 y.o vines
Next Up: Tarragona: Gateway to Priorat
If you’re planning a trip to Priorat [and you really should] don’t stay in crowded, crazy Barcelona. It’s a three- hour drive to the mountainous Priorat each way…not worth it. Stay in Tarragona. Same Mediterranean waterfront, smaller footprint, closer to the wineries.
VinoDuo 