First came the “Let’s go to Priorat” decision. Followed by the “Should we stay in Barcelona?” question. Two hours by car each way; manageable but not ideal. A quick search brought up the city of Tarragona, 90 minutes from the wineries but a complete unknown to us. A few Wikipedia photos showed palm trees and Roman ruins… a classic combination! We took a gamble and booked four nights. As it turned out, our time in Tarragona was among the highlights of our trip to Spain. Much like our discovery of Cagliari in Sardinia last spring, we found in Tarragona a small, ancient port city whose contemporary vibe and stunning architecture rival the giants of European culture.
The Mediterranean waterfront in Tarragona, Spain.
The history of Tarragona reads like a Who’s Who of invaders. The Iberians. The Romans. The Visigoths. The Arabs. “Modern day” Tarragona starts in the 2nd century BC, when the Romans fortified the city and built amphitheaters, baths, and public monuments.
The Roman ruins live on, mingling comfortably with the accoutrements of a modern city. When we weren’t touring wineries, we were wandering the streets of Tarragona’s Old Town or grabbing coffee along the Rambla Nova, a busy pedestrian boulevard lined with shops, bars, and restaurants. We spent so much time in Old Town photographing ancient and not-so-ancient doors, we made a poster of the pix and hung it on the wall.
ANCIENT ROMAN RUINS
THE MODERN SIDE OF TARRAGONA
EAT/STAY
Our home base for four nights in Tarragona [and 2 days of wine tasting in Priorat] was the H10 Imperial Tarraco hotel, overlooking the Mediterranean an ancient amphitheater. The location was unbeatable. Walking distance to Old Town, new town, the port and everything in between. Had the weather been warmer, we would have enjoyed the rooftop pool and outdoor cafe. The hotel went through a major renovation in 2020 but many finishes seemed a bit tired, old-fashioned, and showed signs of wear.
Our favorite restaurant was Arcs, located in a 1350 Gothic building in the old town. With a contemporary but un-fussy Catalan menu, an all-Spanish, and mostly Priorat-based, wine list, and genuinely gracious service, Arcs was an absolute delight. Lisa ordered the “Ajo blanco” Hazelnut and garlic cold soup and the monkfish; Gary had a crispy prawn salad and the turbot. If you go to Tarragona, make Arcs your first destination. We can’t wait to return in the not-too-distant future!
After we returned from Spain, we noticed that Travel & Leisure had named Priorat one of seven “under-the-radar” Spanish wine regions most tourists miss. Well, we’re thrilled we didn’t miss Priorat, and hope it becomes a little more above-the-radar in the coming years!
Next Up: VinoDuo’s Best of 2025
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