I. The City of Bordeaux
When you hear “Bordeaux,” you think of the wine region. We certainly did. And then we spent three nights in the city of Bordeaux…an ancient [3rd century], lively city that benefits from its namesake wine region’s popularity but stands on its own if you never sip a drop of wine during your stay.
Bordeaux sits on the banks of the Garonne river and takes full advantage of its gorgeous waterfront. Cruise ships, bars, shops, and restaurants line the banks, and the promenade is packed with scooters and cyclists jostling for space with walkers and strollers. There are museums, historic sites, and architectural marvels galore. Three days wasn’t nearly enough time to explore the Bordeaux wine region or the city. We’ll be back.
2. Best Hotel: Villas Foch, 25 Cours Marechal Foch, Bordeaux
During our trip we stayed in five hotels from Paris to Montpellier and Villas Foch was the best, by far. From the ideal location in the chic Place des Quinconces neighborhood, to the elegant room, excellent breakfast, and hyper-attentive staff, this hotel wowed us. Opened in 2020 and housed in a strikingly beautiful 19th century townhouse, Villas Foch has just 20 rooms, a small bar, pool and gym, and a jewel box of a breakfast room. For three nights it felt like we were living in the swank mansion of our impossibly stylish French Aunt!
Bordeaux’s Villas Foch, a charming and sophisticated boutique hotel in the heart of the city
3. Pessac-Léognan: Bordeaux Comes in White, Too!
If the bold reds of St.-Emilion and St-Julien were mecca for Gary, Pessac-Léognan hit Lisa’s white-wine-loving sweet spot. Lying just south of the city of Bordeaux on the left bank of the Garonne, the Pessac-Léognan appellation is best known for white wines, almost exclusively a blend of Sauvignon blanc [typically 70-80%] and Sémillon. [Learn more about Pessac Léognan]
This wines of this AOC were new to us, so our guides at Into the Vineyard, a wine travel planning company, selected three exemplary wineries to visit: Château Carbonnieux, Château Couhins, and Château Olivier. Carbonnieux and Olivier trace their heritage back to the Middle Ages. Couhins is a relative newcomer–the 17th century! While all three produce reds, their bread-and-butter wines are crisp whites with good minerality, hints of grapefruit, and the occasional honeyed nose.
Clockwise from left: Carbonnieux estate; Olivier estate; Thomas Jefferson’s diary entry on Carbonnieux; Glass carboys at Olivier; Château Couhins’ barrel room [click photos to enlarge]
Favorite Wines from Pessac-Léognan
Fortunately, all of our favorite are available in the United States.
• Château Carbonnieux Grand Cru Classe de Graves, 2022; $50 at Total Wine
• Château Couhins Grand Cru Classe de Graves, 2018; $43 at Cask Cartel
• Château Olivier Blanc, 2017; $35 at Saratoga Wines [case-only purchase for now]
4. Haut-Médoc: Château Coufran
When Gary drew up his list of “must-visit” wineries, Château Coufran was right at the top. Back in the 1990’s, while working for a Boston-based supermarket chain, Gary befriended the company’s wine buyer, who introduced the novice oenophile to wines from Bordeaux. The buyer had a passion for Château Coufran, whose roots date back to the 17th century and was bought by the Miailhe family in 1924. Gary’s boss also favored the storied Château’s wines. Over the years we’ve enjoyed many a bottle and eagerly arranged a visit to the estate.
They say never meet your heroes. But in this case, our visit to Château Coufran didn’t disappoint. Owners Eric Miailhe and his daughter, Lovely Miailhe-Conqueret, greeted us warmly as Gary related his “origin story” of discovering Bordeaux wine. The Miailhes shared every aspect of their operation with us, from the soil to planting to marketing.
Coufran’s marketing strategy answers the question Gary asked every winemaker: How do you adapt your operation to the younger generation that won’t wait years for a bottle to age? Coufran has perfected “ready-to-drink winemaking” by storing wines until they’ve developed then selling them to customers who are ready to buy, open, and pour a good Bordeaux wine that night.
And, oh yes…the wine was outstanding. We recommend the 2019 Château Coufran Haut-Médoc [85% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon–an atypical blend for the Médoc, which is Cab-driven]. Spicy on the nose with tight red berry flavors and a long finish. Medium body. Very approachable now, even better with a few more years…if you can wait. Available at K&L Wines for $20.
Next Up: The Wines of St.-Julien
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