Italian Wine, Lisa's Whites, Tastings

Why Pecorino d’Abruzzo Deserves Your Attention

When wine lovers hear “Abruzzo” they think Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, the popular powerhouse red from the Italian region of Abruzzo. When chefs hear “Pecorino,” they think of Pecorino Romano, the cheese perfectly suited to grating over home-style Italian meals. But after a recent wine tasting, when VinoDuo hears “Pecorino d’Abruzzo” we’ll now think, “Oh, that zingy white wine we had barely heard of but really like.”
[Photo above from La Cucina Italiana]

The Italian wine industry has been promoting the lesser-known Pecorino d’Abruzzo for years. In 2019, VinePair introduced the grape to its readers. In 2022, Forbes heralded its arrival. Yet in 2024, the European Union is still promoting it as “The Next Big Thing.” Maybe this time, the hype will take hold. Because Pecorino d’Abruzzo deserves a place in your white wine repertoire.

We participated in a trade tasting of eight wines at Boston’s City Winery [hosted by the EU] that revealed the full expression of the grape, from the palest yellow to deep gold and from delicate to robust flavors. We won’t discuss the wine Gary said tasted like “celery and grapefruit,” or the one Lisa found “wicked harsh.” But four out of the eight we tasted, deserve your consideration.

VinoDuo’s Top Four Pecorino d’Abruzzo Wines

Nuntias 2023 [MastrangeloTenimenti del Grifone]
Not available in US!!
The deepest hued of all the wines. Pear and limestone on the nose, with some floral notes. Follows through with pear and good minerality on the palate. Very expressive, with great balance. Founder Filiberto Mastrangelo [at right] is passionate about bringing his wines to the US but, aside from the Montepulciano d’Abruzzo [which listed on Vivino but not available for purchase], he has no distribution.

Ekwo Organic 2022 [Tenuta Terraviva]
$33 at Red Wagon
Sustainably farmed, harvested by hand, and produced with no additives, the Ekwo Pecorino is a first-class biodynamic wine. The nose was an interesting blend of peach, vanilla, and a hint of mint [strikingly different from all other wines in the tasting.] A good balance of fruit and acidity on the palate and a long finish. This was Gary’s favorite wine of the tasting and Lisa’s runner up and we plan on buying some from Red Wagon. [see above]

Il Pecorino 2023 [San Lorenzi Vini]
$24 at Vivino
Lemon, white blossoms on the nose; a “smooth, graceful, and delicious” wine, perfect complement to a light summer meal. Gary raved “they somehow removed the rough minerality without ruining it,” but Lisa thought the flavor died on the palate.

Colline Teramane Abruzzo DOC Pecorino Superiore 2023 [Fattoria Giuseppe Savini]
$24 at Vivino
An interesting nose–cinnamon and mint with hints of baking spice and white fruits. Acid, limestone and “delightful citrus” on the palate with a long finish.

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