Notre Dame + Wine Bars: The Perfect Paris Weekend

About 18 months ago we were in France, winding [or wine-ing?] our way through Paris, Bordeaux, and Languedoc. You can read about our adventures here. This year, we gave Italy its due: Rome, Umbria, Tuscany, and Sardinia. But first, another stop in Paris, where we started our journey with a two-night stay. Our primary goal was to see the remarkable restoration of Notre Dame. The flying buttresses, gargoyles, and stained glass were all there, beautifully restored. The spire and façade are still under construction, but the original majesty of the cathedral shone through. A thrill to see the re-birth up close. Our tour of Notre Dame coincided with Pope Francis’ death. We were fortunate to eavesdrop on a service of remembrance for the Pope, a moving experience in a Cathedral that has been serving the faithful since 1354.

Wine Bar Crawl: Discovering Rue De l’Arbre Sec
As luck would have it, our hotel–L’Empire Paris on Rue de l’Arbre Sec near Notre Dame—was within spitting (only when tasting!) distance to three wine bars. La Fromagerie De Louvre could have been the ultimate tourist experience—a gorgeous “artisanal cheese factory” offering wine tasting workshops pairing their cheese with exquisite wines. At €70 – 100  it’s a pricey treat. And we would have sprung for one if the shop had ever been open when we popped by!  If you go, please report back. Fromagerie De Louvre, 54 Rue de l’Arbre Sec

Another made-for-tourism option was Le Garde Robe, which offers charcuterie boards to pair with its nicely-curated selection of mostly natural wines. It seemed laid-back, if a bit pricey, but again, it operated at inconvenient hours and we never made it inside. 
Le Garde Robe, 41 Rue de l’Arbre Sec

Thankfully, the third wine bar was the charm. And it was très charming. A La Claire Fontaine is a local Bistrot with a deep bench of French wines by the glass. This spot is not a tourist magnet. We visited twice, and never heard another English-speaking customer. Established in 1898, the new owner, Djalel, describes A La Claire Fontaine as  a “Bistrot à vin, biere et cocktails, bar à tapas.” With just a handful of charcuterie plates on the menu, the focus is on the wine. We enjoyed pours from The Rhone, Bordeaux, and Languedoc-Roussillon, all for less than €10 a glass. Djalel noted that his Parisan customers are moving away from the tannic complexity of Bordeaux wines to the softer juice from the Rhone, Languedoc, and fringe Bordeaux AOC’s. He had plenty of higher-end bottles in-stock, but they mostly sit on the shelf.

We encourage more Paris visitors to stop by A La Claire Fontaine. The new owner is knowledgeable and engaging, the prices are reasonable, the outdoor patio is delightful, and the vibe is laid back cool. A La Claire Fontaine, 51 Rue de l’Arbre Sec  [no website…just take our word for it!]

Sadly, none of the wines we enjoyed at the Bistrot have US distribution. But the next time you’re in France…check these out. All sell for under €20/bottle.

Mas d’Intras, La Grange de Saumassac, Vallis Vinaria 2023, Coteaux de l’Ardeche
A” baby Rhone” blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Merlot, this medium-bodied wine packs a lot of flavor for little money. A terrific wine for pre-dinner tapas. IGP Coteaux de l’Ardeche is located between the southernmost side of the Rhone area and northernmost area of Languedoc.

Domaine des Gravennes, Lou Pitchoun Côtes de Rhone 2023
Another Rhone blend (60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre) that delivers on all cylinders from its perfumed nose of raspberry-strawberry and pomegranate to the silky blend of spice and ripe black fruits on the palate. Gary found this to be an ideal complement to  the Bistrot’s charcuterie plate.

Chateau Roquevielle, Excellence Castillion Cotes de Bordeaux 2023
A basic Bordeaux blend of Merlot, Cabernet France, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The combination of the cocoa/plum pudding nose and the soft, luscious red berry juice on the palate makes this a terrific accompaniment to meat-based tapas.

Maison Lorgeril, Gris de Garille Rosé 2017, IGP Cité de Carcassonne
A rosé from the Languedoc region; 55% Cinsault, 30% Grenache, 15% Merlot. Pretty light copper color, with red berries on the nose and palate, good acidity, and crisp finish.

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