During a whirlwind 3.5 day visit to Long Island wine country–our third trip in 15+ years–we covered a lot of territory. One day was spent on the ritzier South Fork [aka The Hamptons], visiting two wineries that had been on our hit list for years: Channing Daughters [below] and the O.G. winery Wölffer Estates. The rest of the time was spent driving up and down the North Fork peninsula, visiting a few pioneers, a couple of recent arrivals, and a surprise “not even on the radar” winery. Today, we begin, alphabetically, with Channing Daughters, Kontokosta, and Lenz.
CHANNING DAUGHTERS
1927 Scuttlehole Road, Bridgehampton, NY
(631) 537-7224 / info@channingdaughters.com
Walter Channing was, by all accounts, an extraordinary man. An accomplished sculptor, whose towering works in wood grace his estate. A successful venture capitalist. And an accidental vintner, who planted his first vines on a whim in 1982. When his wine making hobby turned into a business in the early 1990’s, he founded the winery named after his young daughters. Sadly, Channning died in 2015. But his exceptional winery’s name and spirit live on in the hands of co-founder Larry Perrine, Partner/Winemaker Christopher Tracy [photo above left] and Partner/COO Allison Dubin.
We had the great pleasure of chatting with Christopher Tracy for a bit while we sampled three beautifully presented wine flights. Tracy has been with Channing Daughters since 2002, crafting unusual, surprising, but above all flavorful, wines, including blends with such esoteric grapes as Muscat Ottonel, Blaufrankisch, and Lagrein. Of course you’ll also find the usual suspects, including Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cab Sauv, Cab Franc, and Merlot. In all, Channing Daughters grows, or sources locally, more than two dozen varietals.
Entering the winery’s wide-open grounds and tasting room was like being welcomed into a dear friend’s gorgeous farmhouse. Seated at picnic tables, looking out at the only blue sky of our trip, we tasted 14 wines, three of which we scooped up and brought home.
- Scuttlehole Chardonnay 2021; $20
As Lisa noted, “an excellent Chardonnay for Chardonnay haters,” herself included. Pale blond, unoaked, and crisp; a hint of citrus and soft minerality balance the apple and pear flavors. - Rosato di Cabernet Sauvignon 2021; $25
A dry and fruity rosé with lively acidity; beautiful pale salmon; apples on the nose, bold cherry and strawberries on the palate. Made from Cab Sauv grapes from Mudd’s Vineyards, pioneering growers and viticulturists on the North Fork. - Sculpture Garden 2019; $30 91% Merlot, 6% Teroldego, and 2% Blaufrankish
We haven’t encountered Teroldego or Blaufrankish before and had no idea what impact these would have on the known-known Merlot. We can happily report that this medium-bodied dark garnet juice is a real crowd-pleaser. Dark fruit compote and brandy aromas on the nose; dusty black cherry flavors, backed by a velvety-full mouthfeel; and a caramelized brown sugar finish. This is how a Merlot blend should taste!
KONTOKOSTA WINERY
825 North Road, Greenport, NY
(631) 477-6977 / info@kontokostawinery.com
Kontokosta wins the prize for most dramatic setting and most thoughtful winery design. Perched on a bluff above Long Island sound, the views through the all-glass interior walls are breathtaking. The architecture marries rustic chic with contemporary cool: think reclaimed wood, concrete counters, recycled steel, and nautical shiplap. It all works, even on a dark and dreary day, when access to the lovely outdoor tasting space was clearly not on the menu.
Kontokosta is one of the newer North Fork wineries, with its first vintage released in 2006. Consulting winemaker Gilles Martin, a fixture on the Long Island wine scene for decades, quickly established the winery as a ‘must-visit’ on the wine trail. During our tasting, our fabulous guide Judy presented the full portfolio of wines. Of the 15 wines we sampled, we gravitated towards the white wines, buying two for our summer cellar. [Note: wines only available through the winery]
- Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc 2021; $70
Made in the traditional Méthode Champenoise, this rare [just 175 cases produced] sparkler can “punch with the French champagnes,” per Gary. Dry with hints of lemon peel, limestone, and grapefruit. - Riesling 2021, $22
A “honeyed, but not sweet” Riesling; not bone-dry but so appealing, with apple and pear flavors, and a hint of citrus.
LENZ WINERY
38355 Rte. 25 Peconic, NY
(631) 734-6010 / office@lenzwine.com
We had a fabulous time at Lenz Winery, where we were privileged to spend a couple of hours with winemaker Thomas Spotteck [below, left]. A genial and generous host, Spotteck shared more than a dozen wines with us during a tasting held amid oak barrels and bottles. Had the weather been more cooperative we would have loved sitting in the pretty courtyard.
One of the finest winemakers on the North Fork, Spotteck is relatively new to oenology. After serving in the Marine Corps, where he picked up beer, mead, and winemaking as a hobby, he turned his passion into a profession. Years of study followed, with stints in Washington state and South Africa. He joined Lenz in 2016 and became head winemaker two years later. We were impressed by the broad range of top-notch wines at Lenz, and it was hard to choose our favorites, but we selected five wines to bring home–sparkling, white, and reds.
- Cuvee 2017; $45
A “deeply flavorful” pinot noir sparkler made in the traditional method; almonds on the nose and unsweeted almond paste in the glass (yum!). It was the first wine poured, and it set the stage for what was to come. - Estate Chardonnay 2019; $27
Another Chard Lisa not only liked, but bought. Crisp, citrus, flinty, flavorful, and delicious. - Cabernet Franc 2021; $55
The North Fork is well-known for its Cabernet Franc, and this perfumed beauty is fantastic. The extraction on this wine is phenomenal; it was like drinking a box of raisins in a glass. - Old Vines Cabernet Sauvignon 2019; $60
We haven’t come across many great Cabs on the North Fork…it’s a tough terroir. But the growing conditions in 2019 were just right for skilled winemaker Thomas Spotteck to deliver this excellent Cab. Beautifully balanced, with hints of licorice on the nose and dark fruit flavors. - Old Vines Merlot 2019; $70
We’re not huge fans of Merlot, especially the dry, puckery style of many French-inspired Merlots made worldwide. The few exceptions are examples of true craftsmanship. At Lenz, Spotteck shines in his ability to get the right extraction from old vine fruit that’s aged and released at just the right time.
Next Up: Macari Vineyards, Paumanok Vineyards, and Suhru &Lieb
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