For the better part of the 20th century, the North Fork of Long Island was potato country; one of the largest producer of spuds nationwide. But since the 1980’s, this 30-mile long peninsula has blossomed into wine country, with more than 50 vineyards dotting the main roads and country lanes of the North Fork. If your image of Long Island is either the suburban sprawl of Levittown or the glitz of The Hamptons, you’re in the wrong zip code. The North Fork, and the few wineries on the South Fork, offer all the pleasure of a meaningful wine tasting experience, with a laid back vibe and a dose of humility. The region has so far resisted the Disneyfication that plagues many of the big-name wine destinations.
We first visited the North Fork in 2003, when 30 or so wineries had set up shop. We were charmed by the experience, but the quality of the wine was hit or miss. We persevered. A return trip in 2018 and a third visit last month, confirmed our expectations: with every vintage and every new winery, the quality and sophistication of wine production on the North Fork has improved. In April we visited nine wineries, tasted scores of wines, and brought home three cases. [Don’t underestimate the satisfaction of throwing a six-pack in your car instead of shipping it across the country!]
Wineries We Visited
We selected wineries we hadn’t visited on our previous two trips, including larger, well-established names and small-batch boutique producers. In coming VinoDuo posts we will review each winery in detail, but here’s a quick look at our stops.
- Channing Daughters, Bridgehampton [South Fork]
- Kontokosta Winery, Greenport
- Lenz Winery, Peconic
- Macari Vineyards, Mattituck
- Paumanok Vineyards, Aquebogue
- Pugliese Vineyards, Cutchogue
- Sparkling Pointe, Southold
- Suhru + Lieb Vineyards, Cutchogue
- Wölffer Estate, Sagaponack [South Fork]
How We Got There
Cross Sound Ferry
New London to Orient Point
You could drive to Long Island from Boston, but why would you when you can take the Cross Sound Ferry from New London, CT? Drive on, drive off, and in between catch some sun on the deck or, if it’s freezing…as it was in April…head to the indoor cabin and grab a table. The ferry’s not cheap [up to $80 one-way in high season] but it beats the Rt 95 slog through New Haven and Stamford and the scenic tour past three of the five boroughs!
Where we Stayed
The Menhaden; 207 Front St., Greenport, NY
Greenport is the liveliest village on the North Fork, with a busy harbor [Shelter Island, anyone?], a quaint downtown, and plenty of restaurants, coffee bars, bakeries, and shops. Just a 10-minute drive from the Orient Point ferry, Greenport was the ideal home-base for our three-day visit to wine country. The last time we stayed in Greenport, we were at a funky ocean-front motel. This being April, we ditched the beach and opted for The Menhaden, an uber-stylish boutique hotel in the heart of downtown.
As one would expect, the guestroom was spacious, the king bed comfy, and the service solicitous without being overbearing. But the best part? Each floor has a 24/7 pantry stocked with complimentary gummy bears, M&Ms, yogurt, dried fruit, water, and an espresso machine. In the morning, fresh-baked croissants. And at 5pm, chocolate chip cookies. Will we be back? Oh, yeah.
Don’t-Miss Wine Shop
One Kourt Bottle Shop
219 Main St, Greenport, NY
As luck would have it, one of the coolest wine shops on the North Fork was only a few blocks away from our hotel. Small and smartly stocked with “a worldly selection of affordable wines and spirits,” One Kourt Bottle Shop skews small-batch producers, lesser-known wine regions, and under the radar labels. We spent an hour or so perusing the shelves and sampling the day’s wines at the front of the shop. Of course One Kourt has a strong selection of Long Island wines, but we wound up buying a rosé from Austria and a Brut Rosé Champagne from France. A lovely diversion from the shops and bars on Main St.
Next up: Wine tasting reports at Channing Daughters, Kontokosta Winery, Lenz Winery
VinoDuo 